Notes from Florence

Where to eat, shop, and simply exist in a city that insists you slow down.

There is a moment in Florence… and if you’ve been, you know exactly what I’m talking about. It’s en route to dinner, the light has turned that particular shade of gold that doesn’t seem to exist anywhere else, and the Arno is reflecting the whole sky back at you. I found myself saying it over and over on our sunset walks…Florence was made to be experienced at golden hour.

There is something about being in a city that buzzes with thousands of years of history. Florence has maintained this extraordinary hub for makers and craftspeople, and you feel it around every corner. It truly made me slow down, connect, and shop intentionally.

So without further ado, my guide to Florence. Everything you need to eat, shop, and see!

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What to Know Before You Go

The best version of this city is the one you are not overplanning, bask in the joy of slowing down and stumbling into a leather workshop, or rooftop bar for an appertivo. Build your days loosely. Keep your evenings sacred for long dinners and slow walks. And plan your days around golden hour, always.

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Where to Shop

This is where Florence will absolutely undo you in the best possible way. The shopping here is unlike anywhere else in the world because so much of it is made here, by hand, by people who have been doing it for decades. Bring an extra bag. You will need it.

Heart to Heart / Loompa My favorite find for iconic Florentine slippers.

Ginori 1735 Flagship If you know, you know. The Ginori flagship in Florence is a destination in itself. Even if you don’t buy anything (you will), it’s worth stepping inside just to take it all in.

Essère For custom pajamas and robes made to order. There is a six-week turnaround time, but they will ship directly to your home!

Umberto Leather Goods I walked out with a butter yellow suede bag that I have thought about every single day since. Very much in the spirit of The Row.

Luciano Leather Gloves An establishment that has been in Florence for over 60 years. The selection of leather gloves is gorgeous, and what makes this experience truly special is that they fit the gloves to your hand.

Anna One of my absolute favorites for custom leather jackets and goods! I brought home a gorgeous light camel suede trench coat that is pure perfection for LA weather.

Pineider This one is for my fellow stationery obsessives, one of the oldest luxury paper and leather goods houses in Italy. I picked up notebooks, a leather agenda, and a few other pieces I will treasure for years. If you love beautiful objects and the ritual of writing by hand, do not skip this.

Unicounique Right next door to Pineider, and an equally wonderful discovery. A gem of a shop making handmade jewelry and the most exquisite silk Florentine jackets. I came home with one of these jackets and have not stopped thinking about how to wear it.

Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella One of the oldest pharmacies in the world and one of the most beautiful spaces you will ever stand in.

It should also be said that Florence is home to some of the most incredible vintage sprinkled in throughout the city! Keep your eyes open and pop into everything!

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Where to Eat

Florence fed us extraordinarily well. A few principles before the list: make reservations wherever you can, don’t rush dinner, and always order the bistecca.

Gustapizza The line is worth it. This is the pizza you will be thinking about on the plane home. Go for lunch, go hungry, go twice if you can.

Osteria Del Cinghiale Bianco A beautifully authentic Florentine trattoria. The kind of dinner that lasts three hours and feels like it was over in twenty minutes.

Cantinetta Antinori Elegant, historic, and the bistecca Fiorentina here is genuinely one of the best things I have ever eaten. Reserve ahead.

Trattoria Cammillo A beloved local institution, it’s warm, unpretentious, and unnecessarily delicious. Order the pasta and whatever they tell you is in season.

Cosimo Rooftop For a drink or dinner with one of the most beautiful views of the city. The rooftops of Florence at dusk are a non-negotiable.

Loggia Rooftop Another stunning rooftop perch. Offers a completely different view and both are worth it.

Angel Roofbar Our favorite spot for a sunset aperitivo. Arrive early to get a spot by the railing. This is what I mean about Florence at golden hour.

Babae One of the few remaining working wine windows in Florence, a buchetta del vino, a tiny window cut into the stone of historic palazzos through which wine has been sold since the 17th century.

Vivoli For affogato. Just go. It’s not negotiable.

Gili Your espresso pit stop. A beautiful historic bar that has been part of the fabric of Florentine life for decades. Stand at the counter, order a coffee, do it properly.

Honorable mention: Trattoria 13 Gobbi …on my list for next time and highly recommended by people I trust.

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A Note on How to Actually Experience Florence

The shopping and the restaurants matter, but they are not the point. The point is the feeling of walking a city that has been tended to, built beautifully, and preserved with intention across centuries. The artisans are still here. The wine windows are still open. The light still does that thing at golden hour.

My advice: build your days around the walk to dinner. Leave early enough to wander. Take the long way. Let the city show you what it wants to show you. Florence has a way of giving you exactly what you need. P.S. don’t forget to visit one of the many fotoautomaticas scattered throughout the town!

Have you been to Florence? I’d love to know your favorites!